It’s the 21st of October we should be flying back to Manchester today but we are not. We have decided to stay here in sunny Greece.

We took the boat out of the water on the 17th and got her all secure and winterised on land

Got the sails and lines off winterised the engine got everything packed away in vacuum bags cleaned the inside and outside  and then went for a beer in the Bikini bar De the owner of the bar told us about a friends appartment in the next village Vliho . We should have been flying home the next day but we decided to go and look at it. Good move, Claire isn’t known for her decision making and has spent most of her life sat on the fence but after seeing the apartment and finding out we would be locked in our houses if we returned to the UK cold and rain everyday she said “We are staying” the price suited me so we went to live in Vliho a happy couple.

So the blog is no longer about sailing it’s about living in Vliho on a very tight budget. We hired 2 push bikes for 2 months for €50 each which will be our transport we still have our tender Alice so we can get about on the water plus it’s cool enough to hike up the mountains, so all we need is food and maybe a little alcohol. Oh and some winter clothes for later in the year.

The temperature now in late October is 23°c so it’s like a hot British summer day with sunshine for about 10 hours a day. In fact the sea temperature is warmer than the air temperature so swimming in the sea is great

So after moving in our new home we set out on our 1st adventure on our bikes we pack the towels masks and snorkel and head off to Dessimi beach first we cycle round the bay then head for the beach

Whilst out last week we met Chris from our home town Burnley and got chatting we both like cycling and he regularly cycles the mountains so I arranged to go for rides with him and his mate Andy 1st ride 960ft uphill all the way great.

When we decided to stay we didn’t realise we had no winter clothes I only had shorts and t shirts so we decided to get the half hour bus ride to the main town of Lefkas and get a couple of hoodies  and jeans, not being used to big towns it seemed very busy we only went in one shop got a pair of cycling shorts each Claire got a hoodie all for €12 then we went for a beer ended up spending more on the bus ride and the beer than we spent on shopping. Claire ended up getting some jeans in Nidri I ended up getting a couple of pair of jeans given off Chris so we returned to Vliho a happy couple.😁

Thank you Claire and Anne for your excellent blog post. We had a great time showing Anne how the other half live, she made a great crew member and slotted into the sailing life with ease.

After the hurricane the weather became a little unpredictable but we got more wind than usual which suited me. With learning to sale on Windermere you need a good knowlege of wind shifts and how to trim your sails and the way the wind interacts with the surface of the water which  goes darker as the wind gusts get higher and like the Lake District this area is surrounded by high mountains so you get surprise changes in wind direction and speed which makes for more exciting sailing. which is one of the reasons we are here.

The wind was coming from the southwest so we decided to go north and head for Vonitsa had a great sail up to the Lefkas canal then once through the canal sails up again. Vonitsa is a lovely little town with a small harbour

We met up with some friends we met last year and just chilled for a few days. Last year we attempted to get up to an old church built high up in the rock face but could not find the track and were beaten back with a pack of wild dogs. We decided to try again and succeeded

Armed with sticks and stones we ventured up the goat track to the church There must be a reason to build a church in such an inaccessible place and protect it with wild dogs it but I cant think of one but it had a great view over the town.

We  had to be back in Nidri the next day to meet some friends from our home town and pick up our Greek residancy cards we had applied for Greek residency so we will be able to stay in the country longer than the official 90 days when we exit the EU. It is about 30 mile from Vonitsa to Nydri and we sailed the whole way saving us about £6 in diesel. I was  ecstatic and we returned to Nydri a happy ship

Entertaining our guests

We met Paul, Elaine and Elaine who were work colleagues and long time friends of Claire’s they had booked a couple of appartments in Nydri we took them for a walk to the waterfalls

The following day we had a day trip out on the boat round the islands then ended up on Meganissi at the reggae beach bar where we had a few beers listening to greek reggae and lounging in the sun

We even managed a sail on the way back and Paul took the helm while the girls drunk plenty of white wine.

We arrived back in Nydri and I decided to drop them on the town quay to save me shuttling them to shore in the dinghy. We dropped anchor and reversed onto the quay noticing people on the boat either side of the gap waving I thought they must know us so waved back then I saw the ferry mooring lines running right across the gap we were entering luckily just before it decapited us all I stopped the boat and put her in reverse there were no other spaces on the quay so it meant me motoring into the bay and anchoring out and taking them to shore in the dinghy, after a few sundowners it was pitch black I took Paul ashore first so he could help me get the inebriated women off the dinghy I returned to the boat to pick up the two happy women although one of them swore she hadn’t had a drink, loaded them in the dinghy and set off back to shore I was struggling to see the jetty but Elaine R assured me we were going in the right direction she could see the statue of Aristotle which was on the town quay about 1/4 mile away turned out she could see her husband Paul standing waiting for her and thought it was the statue!

The sailing season was passing quick so we decided to have a last adventure of the season so we weighed anchor and set off for a quiet evening in a secluded bay on Kastos one of the South Ionian islands first we stopped for dinner at Formacoula a great place to snorkel

Then we got the sails up all the way to Kastos we got to the bay and anchored and had a couple of cans and some food while watching the goats fighting each other on the beach we waited until they had all gone and rowed ashore with a bottle of wine and our speaker built a fire and had a party. So much for the quiet night

We woke up to a beautiful morning in the bay and went for a swim to clear our heads then fed the fishes

Whilst in the anchorage we contacted our friends Dave and Helen who were anchored on the island of Kalamos and decided to meet and sail to Paleros on the mainland to go for a curry. We met up then raced each other under sail, I say raced we had hardly any wind so mainly drifted at 2-3knts Dave took the lead and I tried every sail configuration known to try and pass him but he won. We all enjoyed the curry and had a quiet night on anchor.

The forecast for the next 2 days was not good so we headed South to Meganissi where there was a very sheltered small harbour called Vathi we got secure on the town quay and battered down the hatches with all the other boats. The sailing community is very close and there is allways someone to help and give advice. We had 3 great nights on the quay and met some great people who will be lifelong friends the storm did arrive but was not as bad as predicted

We left Vathi and headed back to Nydri to say bye to our Burnley friends on the way we practiced tacking and jibing and other manoeuvres in some strong winds we both enjoyed the practice and returned to Nydri a happy ship😁

Well over to me now to give Skipper Gary a break from writing the blog he’s a hard act to follow but I will do my best.
Well we survived the storm not typical Greek weather but what an experience. We were safe in Lesanda she did us proud Skipper Gary took us to a safe place.

After the Medicane we began planning our next journey our first sail was leaving our safe anchorage and going to see what the sea state was like when we got out it was still quite blustery and some swell and the winds continued to be gusting so we did 14 miles and decided to go back to Tranquil Bay until the winds settled.
The day after we decided to head off to Paleros on the Greek  mainland we stopped at a small beautiful bay for lunch and had a swim. We managed to sail for most of the journey  which always pleased skipper Gary and then anchored out in Paleros Bay.

This place is well known for a Panorama taverna that serves  great curry so we got ready and headed for a curry it was amazing.

I went for a run in the morning whilst Gary filled the boat up with water and prepared her for our next trip. We set off destination Varko we managed to sail all the way just put the engine on to anchor the boat.

Morning after we set off back to Tranquil Bay to prepare the boat for our first guest of the season Anne. Skipper and me cleaned the boat inside and outside went to the laundry with the washing 10 Euros for a wash and dry.

All ship shape for the arrival of our first guest we were both excited the only problem was the weather was unsettled so we had everything crossed that it would be good for her.
Colin our friend who also has a boat kindly offered to pick Anne up from the airport at Prevesa about hour away so off Colin and I went to pick her up, her flight landed about 9.20pm.

On the way to the airport there was an horrendous thunderstorm fork lightening and I have never seen so much rain. However Anne embraced the weather and we had a welcome to Greece beer or two Yamas.

Anne had not been on a yacht before, after a few beers we got back to the boat on the pontoon and showed her the accommodation she was pleased and excited I think ha ha 🤣🤣

In the morning we started to plan our first trip with our new crew member Anne . Skipper Gary gave her a crew brief and showed her round the boat.

We set off in the morning our destination the island of Kalamos. Skipper took us close to the island of Skorpios which was the island Aristotle Onasis bought for Jackie. Then onwards on our trip to Kalamos beautiful  sunshine  and we even managed to get  the sails up fabulous. Anne was keen to learn and Skipper enjoyed passing on his sailing knowledge.

Arrived in gorgeous Kalamos we were greeted by George on the quay a local taverna owner who helps the boats  moor up a real character. We were starving so we had a traditional Greek lunch on board. Time then to explore we walked to the beach a 15-20 mins walk and swam in the sea when we were chatting on the beach a pod of dolphins went by but we have no photo evidence but it’s true promise.

A swim always makes you thirsty so we went to beach bar for a beer you know me any excuse. Anne had a Greek espresso coffee which nearly blew her head off so strong.

What to have for tea George’s  taverna or  eat onboard???

I had bought an instant BBQ in Sami I had never seen them in Greece before so we decided BBQ. Anne and I went off for salad Skipper Gary went searching for a butcher and returned with the biggest pork chops I have ever seen .

The instant BBQ was a disaster but luckily our boat neighbours had a roaring BBQ going and let us put our chops on they were flipping delicious Thanks boat neighbours.

Morning after planned trip back to Tranquil bay around the island of Kastos and the West side of Kalamos lunch stop at the island of Formacoula. We swam to the beach and then had lunch on board another sunny fab day. We sailed the whole journey back listening to music and having a few beers we arrived back in Nydri a happy ship 😁 got Lesanda secure and headed to Ola Kala or Georges taverna for some tea.

The weather was not great for next few days another thunder storm forecast so we planned for a couple of days in Nidri.

Enjoying shopping visiting local tavernas eating great food plenty of  drinks and plenty of laughs and I mean proper belly laughs marvellous, showing Anne life in Nidri.

Sunday Anne’s last day we went for a run in the morning 3.17 miles and then  walked 5.29 miles up the mountain to the Nidri waterfalls spectacular especially because  we have had so much rain there was plenty of water flowing we had  a very active last day.

Me and Anne jumped into the pool under the waterfalls was a wee bit chilly to say the least as not as sunny today fantastic.

7Hired a car to take Anne to the airport Gary drove up the mountain to show her the fabulous view of Nidri and the Ionian islands we had visited and  sailed around emotional  moment we both really enjoyed Anne joining us and sharing our Greek experience Thanks Anne.

A few words from Anne

On Wednesday 23rd September I was lucky enough to join the Lesanda crew. Turned out, was one of the best holidays I’ve ever had.It was fab to learn about sailing, tho Skipper Gary proved to be quite a hard taskmaster and I found out very early on the importance of keeping everything ship shape! I soon found my sea legs and was privileged to take the helm as we sailed round the islands in the beautiful Mediterranean. It’s a world away from Burnley- sun shining, friendly welcoming laid-back Greeks, + to spend time laughing, sailing, swimming in the Sea, plunging into waterfalls, seeing dolphins, learning about knots, pontoons, wind speed, + soaking up the sun, with the 2 Skippers, was out of this world. I can’t thank you both enough,  you’re the host and hostess with the most and mostess, safe sailing, and here’s to my next voyage on the Lesanda! Xxx

  

One of the main obsessions living on a sailboat is the weather. As you will have read in previous posts there is either too much or to little wind or it’s coming from the wrong direction. As I write this we are sat on the boat waiting for a cyclone to hit us. It’s like sitting in the dentist waiting room dreading what is about to happen. It’s now 8pm the forecast is giving wind speeds of 60+knots at 3am tomorrow morning and  I’ve got my 15kg spade anchor and 120ft of 8mm chain holding the front of the boat and I have 5 separate lines tied to trees at the back running to 3 winches and 2 cleats. Ive removed the canvas bimini took anything off the deck that might catch the wind and lashed everthing low down on deck

Its now friday 5.30am and it’s been upgraded to a category 1 hurricane  the rain is torrential and the wind relentless its incredibly noisy and the boat is rocking in all dimensions. Although its pitch black you can feel the G force as it pitches forward and sideways We have been awake most of the night checking lines, Alice our tender and Big Bertha the anchor but mainly to check we haven’t moved. It’s still dark outside so we can’t see what damage this storm is doing to the town or the other boats . We believe it’s going to last another 24 hours.

Friday 10.30 am we’ve had a slight lull in the storm and I’ve morphed into a meercat every few minutes I slide back the hatch , head up high looking round 360° I’ve even started holding my hands limply together in front of me. Boats are still dragging there anchors and acting like dodgem cars  with people shouting crazily at each other trying to protect there boats with fenders in hand. Every boat in sight now has at least 1 meercat on board.

Friday  2.45pm wind died down slightly but torrential rain we have seen videos on Facebook a 50′ catamaran has sunk and quite a few boats completely wrecked in the bay

and substantial damage to property dozens of boats smashed and sunk in the other Ionian islands.

We can’t get off the boat it is to dangerous but we have plenty of beer and food . Most of our time is spent reading and writing and then Claire will check my spelling just like a floating double english lesson, we can watch tv on the tablet and carry out routine maintenance . The solar panels are not much use in a storm so we run the engine for a hour to top up the batteries.

Friday 8pm rain stopped and the wind stopped just like someone switched it off the barometer rises as fast as it fell we can physically feel the pressure change. We pour a glass of wine and dance on deck, it’s over we have survived Lesanda looked after us and kept us safe .Our hearts go out to all that have lost or had damage to there boats and the people South of us where the storm is heading, it was a big one and probably the worst ever storm in Greece. Luckily we were in a very sheltered part of the bay and we prepared the boat well. It’s not all plain sailing. The adventure continues.😁😁

After a few days in Nydri doing maintanance and stocking up provisions we took our first guest out for a sail Nelly our favorite barmaid and friend from the Tranquilo bar. We treated her to a day sail to Meganissi and she brought lunch and prosecco

The evening was spent with Dave it was his last night before he returned to the UK we might have had too many drinks as the night ended with me  falling out of the dinghy into the sea with my phone in my pocket luckily I brought an old phone out with me because the one that went in the sea is now a paper weight

We decided to head away from the hoads and head east into the Gulf of Corinth a mystical sounding place steeped in Greek mythology where we expect to come face to face with 5 headed serpents and may even meet Neptune himself. After being brought up with “Jason and the Argonouts” every Christmas this would be our quest for the golden fleece.

First stop of the trip Formacoula a chance to have some dinner and a cool down swim and snorkel which was amazing with underground caves and spectacular rock formations

While swimming under the boat I noticed an anode on the keel I had recently replaced had almost corroded away in 3 weeks, this was not a good thing for a boat. The anode is a piece of soft metal that sacrifices it’s self to save any other important metal componets on the boat. Without getting to technical it needed sorting soon.

We enjoyed our snorkel and weighed anchor to head for the sheltered overnight anchorage behind the island of Petalas we had stayed there previously on our way back from Poros we had chirizo pasta for tea washed down with the local red and slept in the cockpit watching shooting stars and the space station.

Next stop Missalonghi a 27 mile spectacular sail round the Island of Oxia which looked just like a volcano rising steeply out of the sea

As we entered the narrow channel between the Oxia and mainland I expected Neptune to straddle the gap and lift the boat out of the water at least it would give me chance to replace the anode haha

We got through the narrow gap and went to explore the east side of Oxia looking for some where to stay over night on our return journey we found a great cove but it was a bit to deep for us to drop anchor for overnight but nice for a lunch stop.

Leaving Oxia behind we headed an almost direct route to Missalonghi or the start of the 2 1/2 mile mile approach channel sails up engine off music on here we come.

The entrance to the channel is marked by the standard red and green buoys and we followed them in keeping green starboard(right) red port (left) the farther we got down the channel the stranger it became the channel was about 200mtr wide and 5mtr deep on both sides stood rundown shacks built on stilts looking very much like a shanty town.

The channel ended into a large bowl with what looked like big empty commercial port sorounded by empty shacks not a soul about we looked at the pilot book and it almost said moor where you can! The place was like a ghost town only 3 other yachts in a harbour that could have birthed 3 QE2s.

As we approached the empty quay a little scruffy kid dropped his pushbike amd run towards us to take our lines he took the lines from us, passed them back  then stood looking at us with a big smile on his dirty face. We gave him €3 he was happy picked up his push bike and disappeared leaving us the only two people in the harbour. You would not believe this is the place the famous british politician, poet and Greek revolutionary Lord Byron chose to live. After a beer on board we decided to go and explore whilst walking across a piece of wasteland looking for a bin, mounds of earth began to appear, surrounding us, from the mounds of earth skeletons brandishing massive swords began attacking us!!!!

Oh no that was my imagination sorry. We eventually found a bar ordered a beer apiece  and got a free tea of meatballs and potatoes

As darkness approached people started appearing lights started illuminating the zombie world was weakening by 9pm the whole place was buzzing the empty shacks had turned into elegant tavernas we even had to get washed and changed and try to look “chic” well we went out to join the ever increasing jet set had a club sandwich and bottle of beer to share and pondered the forecast it wasn’t looking good our quest could be over.

The forecast was strengthening winds from the east for the next 3 days which is the direction we should be heading. I decided to end the quest for the fleece and head back back west. We stayed one more night in Missalonghi harbour and witnessed the transformation from ghost town to metropolis again. The next morning we left heading back in the direction we had come from. Beaten by the wind we will return! the only place to get shelter for the night within reasonable distance was tucked behind the sacred island of Petalas it was becoming our second home it wasn’t sacred but it sounds good. We eventually got there after 8 hours of putting the sails up for a gust of wind and taking them down again when we couldn’t stand the sound of empty flapping . We got there and anchored, only 2 other boats in the bay. On the chart it showed a cave named the cave of vultures some where on the island so we went in the dinghy to investigate.

Checking the weather the wind was now coming from the north meaning we could get a free ride to the west so we decided to make way to Sami on the island of Kefalonia we had my favourite  breakfast of scrambled egg, toast and plumb  tomatoes yum yum then weighed anchor and set sail 26 mile west to Kefalonia hoping to sail the whole way… started good both full sails up and doing 4knts half a hour later both sails up 0 knots engine on and Tim our auto pilot on. Mats out cushions out and lie back and sunbath for the next 6 hours. After 3 hours of doing nothing we had gone 13 mile on engine so we decided to clean the whole boat I did the decks Claire did the steelwork then the wind got up so we decided to sail, the wind was now coming from the west so we had to tack all the way to Sami which took forever but we were happy. Sami harbour came into view off the bow as the super fast ferry came to view off the stern. Could we beat it in? poor Lesanda’s engine thrashed as Claire shouted”we need more power Scotty” 6.5knts the ferry gaining on us my head was doing 180° so fast forward backward we did it beat the Superfast. Dropped the anchor reversed  to the quay got the lines secure and had a beer

Sami is a beautiful port steeped in history going back thousands of years. If you are interested Google it because I havnt the time to tell you about it. We decided to stay a few days and explore. After a night sat on the boat with a fantastic view and a few gasses of wine we retired early.

Up at 6am Claire went for a run I went for a walk then had a brew and cornflakes packed an orange and banana & 2 bottles of water we set off to the Acropols of Sami.

As we climbed the twisty track to the acopolis the views got better and better

After about 2 hours walk we reached first the ruins of an old fort then the massive stone slabs of what used to be a thriving self contained city in the 2nd century BC that’s 2500 year ago unbelievable  how they built this place and moved thousands of tons of rock is hard to comprehend. We took in the views shared a banana then head back down.

We liked it in Sami so decided to stay for 3 days we were on the quay with water it cost us €11 for 3 nights stay, we found a great cheap little bar so we sort of chilled and ‘re charged our batteries swimming and exploring the town

We waved goodbye to Sami and Kefalonia  headed north east across the channel to the island of Ithaca and a anchorage on the north west of the island called Polis. We sailed all the way only putting the engine on to drop the anchor. As it was only a small anchorage  I decided to drop the anchor and take 2 lines ashore a manoeuvre we had done problem free dozens of times, this time it was going to be very different.  I found a perfect spot I could see a tree and a rock to tie to I dropped the anchor and reversed back about 25mtrs until the anchor dug in left the boat ticking over in reverse jumped in the dinghy and rowed ashore with the end of a rope as I rowed the wind got up and blew the boat into shallow water I got to shore tied the rope round a tree and told Claire to pull the rope tight and bring it out of the shallows I pulled myself along the tight rope back to the boat climbed on and heaved on the rope the boat was stuck!!  I put her in forward gear and got Claire to pull in the anchor it wouldn’t moove I jumped in the water with my mask and could see the problem was the rudder had got trapped behind a rock I had to dive down and turn the rudder whilst pushing the boat sideways with my shoulder it was free😁 I untied the boat from the shore line dropped it in the water went out to relay the anchored and reversed back again jumped in dinghy to pick the line up that was still tied to the tree and bring it back to the boat. It wasn’t long enough the boat was blowing away again I got Claire to throw another line but missed it I then had to let go of the shore line Claire dived off the boat with the rope in her teeth and swam over to me so I could tie the lines together she then pulled in the dinghy and me back to the boat and haul the  lines in cleat off the one tied to the tree untie the extra line get back in the dinghy and tie that line to a rock Pheww time for a well earned beer

The following day I dove under the boat to to replace the anode then we went for a swim to explore the cave of Nymphs where Oddyseus hid some treasure. We didn’t find any treasure or nymphs.

We left Polis beach a lot calmer than we arrived and sailed the whole way back to Nydri a fantastic adventure. We sailed into Nydri a happy ship😁

Last post finished with us in Ag Nikolaos in Zante with the 20knt wind blowing us against the quay. We left the boat well fendered and went for a beer hoping the wind would die down but when we returned it was being battered against the wall so Claire decided to leave the harbour and use the wind to take us back to Kefalonia. Being stuck between 2 big boats Claire had to wrack her brain to figure out how to get off the wall. With use of big fenders and lines we managed to lever our way out and set off north back to Poros with a 15 to 20 knot wind on our beam… perfect sailing with reefed sails. Claire took the helm and sang all the way back

3 1/2 hours later we were back on Kefalonia tucked up safely in Poros 42mile sail in the day we went to a great bar playing Ibiza chill out and got high on crisps, nuts red wine and atmosphere.

The following day Claire looked at the forecast and decided to sail east to get the wind so we headed for an island called Patalas just off the mainland  half way there the wind got up and by the time we entered the anchorage we were surfing down waves with the wind and sea pushing us to our limits through a small gap in headland she fought off every wave heaving on the tiller pulling on lines with her teeth unfortunately we dont get pictures of the exciting bits but we got anchored after dodging fish farms and lobster pots. The anchorage was perfect about half a dozen boats and miles from anywhere we fell asleep exhausted in the cockpit watching the stars spin round above our heads.

The next Island to visit was Kastos which has one small port on it and it gets very busy  Claire allowed me helm this passage so I  decided to use the motor instead of waiting for the wind. In these small ports it’s on a first come first moor basis so you have got to get in early. As we entered the port I spotted a boat motoring in on my starboard side a little behind but going faster so I hit the throttle eyeing them in my peripheral vision they speeded up, without directly looking there way I pushed it harder it was who dares wins we made the turn into the harbour first only to realise the port was empty we dropped anchor and reversed in. Then we helped the boat we were racing in moor up, off the track we are all friends ( there you are Angela and Jan you are in my blog) within a hour the port was full with boats battling for position. Very entertaining to watch with a cold can in hand

The following morning we went for a walk up and over to the west side of the Island and found an ideal plot to build our dream home looking over the Islands of Kalamos, Meganissi and Lefkas

Claire decided we could catch the west wind forecast and sail North east all the way to Paleros on the north east corner of the inland sea, soon as we left port she ordered me to get the sails up first heading south to round the bottom of Kastos then round the corner and follow the west coast of Kalamos after just a hour of great sailing the wind disappears and Claire ordered sails in and engine on ☹ noisy engine for 2 hours but time to relax put Tim on and enjoy sunshine and mountain views.

When we got to Paleros we dropped anchor just outside the harbour rowed ashore in the dinghy and called at the yacht club bar for a beer and snacks.

On the walk back to the boat we bumped into our friend Dave who we met last year in Nidri so we stopped for a beer with him and a fantastic free meze of cheese pie and mini mousaka while chatting to Dave he casually mentioned when he was younger he did Lands End to John O Groats on a “penny farthing”with solid tyres and fixed gear in 11 days!!! you meet some great people while cruising and they all have an entertaining tale to tell. We left the bar and headed back to the boat for a sun downer the obligatory last drink it’s the boating equivalent of one for the road.

The following day we set off back to Nidri leaving Dave cleaning his boat😁 it’s about 9 mile so Claire was determined to sail it as soon as we left the anchorage she was hollowing at me to hoist the sails “full sails” she screamed as she set a tight course into the wind. I think this navigation course she did last year is going to her head.🤫

the wind died down but Claire was determined to sail back the boat speed slowed 4knts to 3knts then 1knt then we were drifting backwards I begged her to start the engine but she wouldnt the heat of the sun was unbearable I crept slowly to the engine switch she glared down at me and said one step closer and I’ll have you keel hauled. She threw the oars at me and made me row. I could see a mutiny happening at any time as she spun the cat o nine tales above her head we still had 3 mile to go my hands were bleeding with the rough oars.Then I stood up and said “I am taking back control of my ship” after all she had a recent RYA navigation, I had sailed oceans! We stood silently glaring into each other’s eyes then she spoke those unforgettable words “ok you can be skipper if you get me a can out of the fridge”

We entered Tranquil bay a happy ship😁😁

After taking the boat out of the water for winter it gives you a chance to do work on her under water bits so the main jobs were change rudder bushes thats the stick or stearing wheel that steers of the boat, then change toilet seacock which is the valve to open and shut the holding tank and general cleaning. After working 12 hours a day in 36°c heat in a dusty boatyard for 6 days we could not wait to launch her and take her out for her shakedown cruise to check everything was ok. We launched no problems it floated so we took her out for a sea trial helped by our friend Dave who had recently launched his boat we tried the sails then retuned and anchored with lines to shore in our favourite spot Tranquil Bay

The next day Dave gave us a lift into Lefkas and went to the local Lidl to stock up provisions for the week we filled our trolley with Mythos and a bit of food   we were now ready.

Claire passed her sea navigation course last year so I left the navigation to her.

Her first port of call a quiet anchorage on the north east coast of the island of Ithaca Marmakis beach a small semi circular cove with an  island in the centre

• The next place Claire wanted to visit was just 6 miles south a beautiful little port named Kioni we got moored on the town quay had our obligatory anchor beer then went to look for the local skip to get rid of our rubbish. We found the skip about 400mtr away up a steep road dumped the rubbish and carried on walking up hill then found a track that

turned into a goat track then we were at the top of the hill with fantastic views down onto Kioni bay

Claire was now getting adventurous with her passage planning and wanted a longer passage with a good chance of catching the wind so we headed south to the south east coast of  Kefalonia the port of Poros on the way we stopped off for lunch and a swim at Pera Pigahdi

In the afternoon the wind died so we put Tim our auto pilot on and spent the afternoon cleaning the decks and cockpit

After a hot night in sheltered  Poros 30°c we decided to look for a suitable anchorage where at least you point into the breeze. Claire looking on the chart decided we would travel about 18 mile around the south tip of Kefalonia a place called Amandaris beach it was quite exposed to the wind but stunning with high mountains dropping onto white sandy beach and caves to explore.

We slept outside in the cockpit star watching and saw a couple of shooting stars. Claire wanted to go to shipwreck beach on Zante knowing it gets very busy I suggested we get there early morning which meant setting off about 5.30am it’s about 16 mile crossing from Kefalonia to Zante it would take us 4 hours and we would probably have to motor all the way. We were up at 5am it was still dark when we took up the anchor and set off

After an uneventfull crossing we neared the high white cliffs of the northwest coast of Zante a very rugged and spectacular coast

As we approached the bay we could see the big white plumes of wake coming off the back of fast powerful trip boats it looked like an offshore power boat race. It was 9.30 am and the bay was getting packed we motored nervously forward approaching one of the most photographed beaches in the world. There were boats comming in at all angles. Claire on the front of the boat ready to drop anchor me sweating searching for somewhere safe “drop it” Bertha the anchor rattled down and bedded in straight away even though it was before 10am we cracked open a beer and just sat looking we had seen the photos hundreds of times 4 year ago we were stood 400mtr on top of the cliffs looking down we would never have imagined we would sail here in our own boat😁

We were there so we had to get on the beach we untied Alice and rowed ashore

As we rowed back to Lesanda a 46ft catamaran was reversing right up above my anchor and stopped within 10ft of my bow. Although they were Italian the understood everyword I yelled to them and soon motored forward out of our way, it was getting madness as we lifted the anchor and zigzagged our way out.

Whilst we were in Zante we explored the rugged north coast heading to the Blue Caves at the right time of day you can put your hand in the water and it turns blue by swimming in it you could turn yourself into a Smurf

We were both getting hungry so decided to head for Ay Nikolaos the wind had risen as we entered the port all set up for a stern to mooring the only available space when a trip boat decided he wanted it even though they had there own space on the quay he was waving me to go on the south quay where there were 3 big boats all moored side on we were being blown about with the gusts and had to frantically run around moving fenders and lines and I had to get into a small space I started my approach then realised I had the tender tied to the side that was going against the dock oops! I had to power out again give the helm to Claire who spun the boat round in a circle while I ran round the boat with the tender in 15-20knt wind gusts we got moored and had a beer the joy’s of sailing That’s all for now folks I’ve just exhausted myself writing that!!!

I’m starting the blog again because we are back on the boat still in Greece. Last year the last post of the blog we went to  Zante in mid July then flew home I sold Moonflower our boat on Windermere then couldn’t be bothered to write anymore after that. We came back to the boat in September and were joined by our 3rd guests of the year my 2 sisters Lynda and Diane

Who stayed for a week we all had a great time sailed down to Kalamos had a night out on anchor in Kastos went to the  reggae bar on Meganissi then we mooched about for a few week and got the boat lifted out end of October

Back to this year 2020 started good then went crazy with the China virus as Donald calls it. First of all it wasn’t coming to England then it did come and we were locked up for months. Luckily I had bought an old motorbike that needed restoring to give me something to do and we had our mountain bikes so we took to the mountains every day and kept away from it.

We had planned to fly back to Greece in April but Boris said no! The plan was to sail to Crete to meet family and then cruise the Aegean for 6 months but we were locked up in England. Easyjet had cancelled our flight leaving our boat in Greece with a brand new headsail ordered, which is the equivalent of a new engine. All we were waiting for was Boris to open the gate. We were like 2 greyhounds sighting the hare.

12/08/20 our flight Manchester to Preveza we were free. The airport was quiet apart from a 5 year old girl who was screaming and shouting led on the floor on her back her mother “no darling” “no Nelly” I said to Claire hope shes not near us. The next 3 and a half hours I had to endure Nelly kicking me in the back and her mother repeatedly saying “Nelly stop kicking that mans chair”

Working on Lesanda

We eventuality got to Greece and got through passport control without a test, I think the Greeks thought Nelly was testing enough.

Lesanda was waiting patiently for us propped up on stilts we had been 10 months apart, she felt neglected but after a week of TLC she was looking good

So after 7 days working on her it was launch day 19/08/2020 she got her bottom wet and we were off on another adventure

Attention Stop reading here if you carry on you will go to the start of last years blog

Great to have Sarah over and well done overcoming her fear of flying to come out on her own and join us.

We had one last island to explore Zante we knew the island having flown there on holiday a few times and it was mine and Claire’s first foreign holiday together 15 year ago. The island lies about 70 mile south of Nidri so we would take a chilled 3 days to get there with 2 stop overs. Leaving Nidri we sailed down to Ithaca and anchored out on the south east coast next to a small island in a bay called Pigadhi

A beautiful place but we soon renamed it wasp island because we were plagued by hundreds of wasps making all the boats in the anchorage looking like they were hosting silent discos arms and legs waving and running round the boats like lunatics, safest place was swimming in the water so we spent the afternoon snorkeling. Luckily later a flotilla of about 10 boats turned up and decided to have a BBQ on the beach so the wasps left us for richer pickings. We were entertained all night watching the silent disco instead of participating in it. The following morning we got away before the wasps

and headed to Poros on the south of Kefalonia not much wind so motor sailed turning the engine off and pulling the headsail out when the wind got above 5knts.

We arrived Poros mid afternoon

moored up on the town quay had a beer and went exploring and found a great bar built into a cave so we sat and chilled in the cool cave with a beer and great views

We liked Poros so much we decided to stay a couple of days it was free with an unlimited supply of water. The small town of Poros is about half a mile walk from the harbour we spent the evening wandering the streets and bars

I woke early to get the sunrise

and checked the weather forecast it was settled untill late afternoon and then there were very strong winds forcast for the next two days I decided we could only get to Zante if we set off now. So I woke Claire and said we are going “when?” Now!! so instead of a lazy day in Poros she was up at 6am and preparing to sail before breakfast. We had a great wind for the crossing and sailed most of the way

It was quite emotional as Zante came into view sailing with full sails up we passed Tsilivi our first holiday destination and also it was the only inhabited Island of the Ionian that we had not yet landed on, it was probably going to be my most challenging harbour to get into being a large commercial port and the wind was getting up its the only sheltered harbour on the island and was probably going to be full if we couldn’t get in we would have to anchor out in 40knt winds. Luckily we found a space in between the big yachts and got tied secure wiped the sweat off my brow and opened a cold Mythos and congratulated each other. Yamas we had done it!!!

Strangely enough the boat next to us who took our lines had a family on board from Preston only 15 mile from our hometown. When the big catamaran on the right left it revealed this big boy our new neighbour was giving us shelter from the wind

We booked on the quay for 2 nights for €20 and went a walk round Port Zakinthos finding it hard to believe we got here on our own steam or should I say wind. The evening was spent in a traditional Greek restaurant after the meal George the owner slapped an unmarked bottle and two shot glasses on the table and told us to drink!! I tried and tried it hurt but it was free and was the tastiest paraffin I’ve ever drunk

The next day we hired a scooter and had a look round the old haunts remanissing

about our old holidays in Zante we went to Tsilivi and met up with old friends who were on holiday then went to our favourite taverna from 15 year ago Paradisos

The wind was still blowing and the beach looked more like Cornwall

We had to leave the island early 6am the next day for a 5hour sail back to Poros on Kefalonia before the wind strengthened

Unfortunatly the forecast was slightly wrong as we left the harbour I hoisted the sails in 10knt wind perfect sailing then the wind speed slowly increased I half reefed the sails at 15knts then pulled in the headsail at 18knts and put the motor on we were about a hour out of Zakinthos with at least 4 hour to Kefalonia the wind was gusting 25knts I asked Claire if she was ok to carry on she gave me a nervous smile and said I’m ok. We were about half way when we heard an alarm go off on the boat it was the VHF radio someone was in distress and calling Mayday their boat had lost power it’s engine had stopped. We listened in as he spoke to the coastguard. Our boat was taking a beating and slamming down hard with the breaking waves and we were getting soaked. Maybe I should have turned back!! they were in a lot bigger boat and more experienced.

We heard over the radio they got there engine going and carried on to Poros they were about 30 minutes behind us the wind was beginning to weaken we got out the sails again turned off the engine and relaxed we had made it. A bit windswept and wet we moored up and cracked a can another successful crossing. Later I helped a boat moor up next to us it was the one that called the Mayday earlier two couples from Wigan who looked very relieved to step on shore.

The only thing we hadn’t done was an overnight sail so I planned to do the last leg of our journey overnight Poros to Nidri the long way round about 12 hours sailing, it was a full moon the following night but when I checked the forecast it was rain and thunder not a good combination for your first night sail.

We left Poros early morning for an uneventful last sail to Nidri where we will be leaving the boat before we return to the UK

11 week soon pass when your enjoying every minute we have sailed over 600 mile stopped on 11 Greek islands as well as mainland ports made some great friends on our journey had some amazing experiences. Yamas

Hot! hot! hot! for the past few week the temperatures been steadily rising its now early July its about 42°c and we don’t have much shade just the bimini which is a dark blue canvas that when sat under it early afternoon it turns into an oven good job we are surrounded by water!!!

We left Kalamos and headed to what we now call home Nidri on Lefkas to await the arrival of our next guest for four days Sarah. We managed to anchor in the same place as allways and got supplies, cleaned the boat and did maintenance jobs. To collect Sarah from the airport we needed to hire a car.. so I thought I would get a good deal from the Godfather who we got the Punto off that the wheel fell off earlier. He gave me a car for free but I had to insist it wasn’t the maroon Punto!! Thankfully it was a blue Punto

We picked up Sarah and took her to our local Tranquilo bar then to the Tree bar then across to the boat in the tender at 1.30am in pitch black which she enjoyed. We decided to take her across to the island of Kastos with a stop off on Kalamos for dinner I learnt here how to tie a few boating knots on the way

Dolphin watch on way to Kalamos

And introduce her to snorkeling

We spent the night on anchor and got Sarah used to the hammock and introduced her to cockpit star gazing where you get drunk and lay on your back in the cockpit of the boat and watch the stars appear as it goes darker until you can see millions of stars

Garys had enough of writing so he asked me to continue!! The next day We went to Palairos on the Greek mainland we moored up on the quay and went to a beach bar and went swimming in the sea great chill after a fab sail. Sarah being coached by Skipper Gaz.

In the evening went to a taverna for tea beautiful food looking over the sea and mountains.

The day after set sail back to Nidri Sarah managed to sail the boat the wind was in our favour at about 8 to 20 knots the training with the skipper was a success.

.

Sarah’s last day spending time round the pool relaxing until her flight home on Sunday we really enjoyed her visit and making memories with her on Greek adventure.

A few words from Sarah about her time over here “Well what can I say about my little Greek adventure. Never in a million years did I think I’d ever get on a plane on my own that was the first hurdle to get over and I DID IT! Now the next hurdle living on the boat for the next 4 days not knowing how I would adapt. Luckily I had a good skipper and first mate to make me feel at ease and just like a duck to water I was settled. The rocking of the boat at night reminded me a being a baby being rocked to sleep, which was quite soothing. The morning swims were out of this world and if people have seen the video I was just like a mermaid diving in to the sea. I might not be Olympic dive ready but I have certainly improved. I have never seen so many beautiful islands it truly is a stunning place. I even had the honour of sailing the boat in 10 knots of winds which was very exciting I felt like the female version of Captain Jack Sparrow. So that’s my adventure over with for now, thank you for an amazing 4 days I can’t wait for the next one.“